Saturday, March 20, 2010

Bergere: Vintage Jewelry Ad Pics

As I mentioned below in my article on Bergere jewelry, Bergere ran some beautiful full page ads in magazines such as Vogue and Harpers Bazaar. Some of them were so beautiful, I wanted to share.








My vintage multicolored Bergere necklace can be purchased at pavintage.etsy.com

Wednesday, March 17, 2010

Anonymous Irish Blessing


May the road rise to meet you. May the wind be always at your back. May the sun shine warm upon your face. The rains fall soft upon your fields and, until we meet again, may God hold you in the palm of His hand.

Is the Celtic Knot really Irish?

The Celtic or interlacing knot pattern is found as early 300 BCE, in Roman floor mosaics. There is no evidence however of this motif in pre CE Ireland. Are we to then assume that the Celtic knot is not of Irish origin? Maybe. Or maybe not.

It is important to keep in mind that many cultures of that time worked with wood. Because wood does not stand the test of time, it is not impossible that the Celtic knot was used in countries, such as Ireland, earlier on making it difficult to say with certainty that the knot originated in Rome. It is known that many cultures used an interlacing knot patterns. Examples can be found in Islamic, Coptic, Russian, Byzantine, Ethiopian, and European architecture, art, and, in medieval times, book illumination.

Spiral patterns, as well as key and step patterns, were strong design elements in Celtic art preceding the Christian influence on Ireland which began in the 4th century BCE. From there these patterns found their way in the early Christian illuminated manuscripts where they were combined with delicate lettering, flowers, plants and animals to create some of the most beautiful books ever produced.

It is difficult to say exactly what the knot represented in antiquity but because of its prominent placement on Irish and other western European headstones and monuments we can assume that it had a symbolic as well as decorative significance in those cultures. Looking at the Celtic knot through modern eyes we cannot help but to see the similarity with the figure eight eternity sign current used in mathematics and elsewhere.

Did the early Celts have a concept of eternity? I'm sure that some scholars can answer that question but in my opinion the Celts had their own concept of the eternal. Not in a mathematical sense perhaps but in a way that was practical but no less profound. Their culture and others of that time had a keen appreciation of cycles and seasons and the endlessness of nature. Something we as modern people, insulated in houses and offices, no longer appreciate fully. In my opinion, it is our loss.

On this St. Patrick's day I hope that it anyone reading this will do more than drink and wear green beads and funny hats. Listen to Irish music. Go outside and look at the stars or the grass turning green underneath your feet. Think about the cycle of days and weeks and life. Really appreciate what it is and what it meant to be not only Irish but Celt.

Tuesday, March 16, 2010

Spring Green Celtic Knot Bracelet


I just posted a new item on etsy (bijoulerie.etsy.com). It is handcrafted from emerald green and clear Swarovski crystals, copper, Czech glass and vintage beads. The Celtic knot charm is handmade from 100% copper. A nice combo of faux pearls and green and clear beads are placed on copper plated memory wire in a 4 strand design. I think it's a great spring piece!

Monday, March 1, 2010

new sale item: bergere necklace

I found a really lovely estate sale necklace this weekend. Although I didn't know this when I snapped it up, it is made by Bergere (accent mark over the 2nd e) a company doing business from the 1940s to 70s and is well worth collecting.

My newly acquired Bergere necklace is made of hand knotted ceramic beads in a full palette of delicate summer colors. Each bead is unique with soft splashes of color in a spatter or ink flow type pattern. The the necklace has weight and good quality hand knotted cord. It is in excellent shape by anyone's standards. I love it, really want to keep it, but am going to put it on Etsy anyway - hopefully this week.

I found out a lot about the company unable to date the necklace exactly. My gut feeling is that this piece is 50s to 60s but I can't back that up. I'm going to do my best of course. When I buy jewelry - or anything vintage - I want to know everything I can about the item and this is as much a matter of interest as it is of resale importance.

About Bergere: Bergere was known to produce high quality costume jewelry from 1946 to 1979. Vogue and Hapers Bazaar ads from the period are lovely full page magazine placements featuring a wide variety of necklace and bracelet designs. It was sold at high quality department stores such as Nordstroms, Lord & Taylor and Marshall Fields. The company name was most likely inspired by the Bergere Folies a French opera house of its fame and popularity from the 1890s through the 1920s. Considered scandalous in its day it is still operational as of 2009.

Ceramic pieces in the Bergere line are relatively rare. I have not been able to find my piece anywhere online. It is an absolutely perfect summer piece with unique multicolored beads that will coordinate with any outfit and can be worn for both casual and dressy occasions. I will be offering it for sale in my etsy vintage store, pavintage.etsy.com, within the next few days.

Friday, February 26, 2010

red hat society necklace

I've been busy. Mostly ordering supplies and designing. I have a few things planned. Am ready to move on to spring and summer pieces but have a commission for a necklace and bracelet to finish first. The necklace is similar to the heart necklace, which has been well received but not sold, and a matching bracelet. The new necklace will have purple and red Swarovski's, fresh water pearls, and gold fill as opposed to the vintage chain used in the heart necklace. The bracelet will be similar but with a 3 strand memory wire. I chose memory wire for the bracelet because it will be an attention getter.

The necklace and bracelet colors are important because my customer belongs to the Red Hat Society. I am obviously hoping that other red hats will like her necklace and bracelet and place orders. Or I think I'm hoping they will place orders. Recreating the same necklace or bracelet isn't really my thing and I would have to make significant changes in deference to customer #1 also which can be a little sticky when people want 'one of those.'

Still commissions are great and I'm happy to have one. I am hoping to make a similar necklace for my etsy store. I have learned a little about the Red Hat Society too and I wanted to share some of that.

The Red Hat Society is quite simply a social group for ladies over 50. As I understand it, volunteer work is not the purpose of the group. Instead it focuses on fostering friendship between women in the 50+ demographic, though younger women may join as pink hats. The ladies dress in red hats and purple dresses to all of their functions. Functions include luncheons, dinners and tea parties. The purple dress, red hat combo is an idea taken from a poem by an English poet, Jenny Joseph.

When I am an old woman I shall wear purple
With a red hat that doesn't go and doesn't suit me.
And I shall spend my pension on brandy and summer gloves
And satin sandals and say we've no money for butter.
I shall sit down on the pavement when I'm tired
And gobble up samples in shops and press alarm bells
And run my stick along the public railings
And make up for the sobriety of my youth.
I shall go out in my slippers in the rain
And pick flowers in other people's gardens
And learn to spit.

This isn't the whole poem, but as much of it as a quick online search yields. It's a great poem and I think it captures what the group is about very well. I would love to join!

Tuesday, February 23, 2010

the valentine necklace that wasn't

The new necklace was supposed to be done for Valentines. Instead it was finished last night. Still better late than never. And I like it. And there is always next year too, of course. Also I can still list it in my etsy shop as well as my website.

The necklace has deep garnet red Swarovski crystals, fresh water pearls, vintage chain and gold fill wire. It's a little unusual design wise because it alternates diamond shapes and oval. I think it hangs well, also.

I'm hoping to get the pictures taken this week. I feel that I'm not getting anywhere near enough done. But while there are a couple of different reasons for that, the main one is that I will take things apart and redo them if I have to. Sometimes more than once.

I had an art instructor once who told us about chasing a bad drawing. And he was right. Sometimes its better to just start over. And that's how I feel about jewelry. If it's not quite right in a design sense, change it. Because, for me at least, design is much more important than technique or materials.

So the valentine necklace that wasn't wasn't because I finished it and then took it apart. Also because I wanted a vintage clasp and that sometimes involves a search. Though now having found the clasp and put it on, I'm not sure if it's quite right. It's a nice piece overall however, and I'm happy with it even if I don't sell it till next year!

Saturday, February 20, 2010

backyard forge & metal factoids

My friend Dan and I are both into metal. Not the music. Real metal. I am now using copper. He is making knives, shaping them actually, but there is a lot you have to know. His thing is more interesting, but that's always the case!

Last night we talked about different but mostly related topics. Japanese swords and a really cool knife I saw on a discount rack. Pounded down. Overlapping. Waves of metal like rings on a tree. And there all kinds of things like that.

Then we talked about history. Metallurgy. Now and then. The mustard test. Patina. Chemicals. Fire. Ancient metal. New metal. How wire is made. As we're talking however it occurs to me that metal just isn't as important as it used be, even if it does hold up bridges and buildings and ships. It doesn't make or break cultures anymore, or name huge blocks of history, and like most other products of modern society, we're very removed from how it is made.

So I told Dan about a documentary I saw. It was about a group of scientists (metallurgists included) about a group of scientist trying to recreate the forging of metal using ancient methods. They tried and tried but just couldn't do it. The original technology, whatever it was, was lost. It made me think that it might be interesting to learn a little about some of that and blog on it.

The image is not Dan's forge BTW. But the plan is to build something similar. I WILL be there when he fires it up!

Watch for upcoming blogs on metal!

Friday, February 12, 2010

A Short History of Boho

Boho is fashion. Intricate tiered earrings, bangle bracelets, hippie skirts. If you are into clothes or jewelry, you know what it is. Not everyone can wear it, but when someone wears it well, it is enchanting and romantic and that was what I set out to write about in this article. Surprisingly I find I have written about a thousand years of history which is by far the better story.

Boho is a modern term, Bohemian abbreviated and it means literally a person from Bohemia. The earliest version of the word is of Latin origin, a reference to a Celtic tribe occupying the area between Germany and Poland during the first century BCE. This place name which was originally a variation on the tribal name of Boii later became known of as Bohemia. Bohemians never called their country Bohemia, however, even though the rest of medieval Europe did. Citizens of the region called their country Czechy. Today it is the Czech Republic. But the Czech Republic, now and then, was not made up only of Czechs. Like many other countries it has a diverse population including Czech, German and Romany citizens and it is the Roma who concern us.

A history, even a very brief history, of the Romani people is well beyond the scope of this article. In Czechy, as in everywhere, the Roma faced discrimination and cruelty. Despite this treatment there was something that appealed to the Europeans in the Roma lifestyle. What was in part a method of survival was seen as a romantic nomadic life lived on the outskirts of society, full of adventure, free of the limitations and demands of the European status quo. And this was the mystique reportedly engendered by the Roma themselves and it is a mystique I think we all would like to believe in.

Boho in the modern sense owes its existence to the romantic notion of the Roma , a people not only seen as happy nomads but as a group outside conventional society and it is this position and societal outcasts that struck a chord in the mid 18th century. In this period, artists in France - the country of Renoir, Hugo, Matisse and Rodin - were historically excluded from society and thought of as badly educated and common. In the turbulent times surrounding the French revolution however privileged people began to associate with artists and themselves pursued art which served to both legitimize the vocation and the people who were part of it. Still feeling like outsiders, artists began to think of themselves as Boheme and the resulting free spirited lifestyle became an important aspect of the Romantic movement.

The art of the Romantic movement conveyed emotion and this was considered secondary to strictly representational work. It was open to all social classes and it's concepts were in both and artist and social sense.The earlier Bohemians paved the way for the great art of the of the mid 1800 onward. The impressionist and pre-Raphealite schools built on the Romantic philosophy of art. It's unconventional lifestyle stretched as far as the beat generation and in some circles continues even today.

So what is Bohemian? It is a style. A romantic but still fact based notion of a culture. It is an idea, a movement, and a lifestyle. It is art and the precursor of the art. It is the artistic life outside the bonds of the everyday. Even in its relatively superficial outward form it speaks to us of hippies, and gypsies, fashion, creativity and freedom. If we are into clothes or jewelry, we know it. It is long romantic skirts, exotic jewelry, and brightly colored beads. When we wear we feel different, a little outside conventional society, free-spirited, creative and, if even incrementally, braver. And this is important. Because as Matisse said, creativity takes courage.

Wednesday, February 3, 2010

weebly review

The first thing I want to say about Weebly is that it really does offer completely free web hosting. There is an available upgrade, of course, but the basic plan is free. No cash. No ads. No pop ups. No anoying Weebly banner. The site has a good reputation, too, and has been around for some time. It was listed near the top of Time Magazines 50 best websites in 07 and seems to be holding its own. I transferred my dot come to the site last night and am feeling pretty good about it. This is my URL: bijoulerie.com if you'd like to see how it came out.

Starting out on Weebly is easy. If you don't want Weebly in your URL, you can buy a dot com through the site or bring your own from wherever it is parked. Buying one from Weebly is encouraged and you will be warned that transferring an existing dot com is complicated. There is a tutorial however o the Weebly website and it is understandable. I found the process relatively easy though I did hit a snag towards the end. Even so, transferring my dot com from GoDaddy to Weebly took probably 15 minutes or less.

Making your website is painless thanks to Weebly's user friendly drag and drop widget type interface. Widgets include the usual text and picture applications as well as contact form and Google AdSense. Google AdSense allows you to sell things directly from your site but as I understand it, a huge bite is taken out of any money you make. Because I link my site directly to Etsy via Etsy Mini this doesn't effect me but for many people it would be a definite draw back. There is an advanced editing mode for anyone who wants to write there own html. but there are also around 50 different templates to choose from. You can upload your own banner as well.

My site went up in 2-3 multi-tasking hours and, aside from the other stuff I had to do, it was a fun 2-3 hours. I found nothing in the Weebly interface that was frustrating or confusing. and I'm pretty easily frustrated. I'm not sure how Weebly stacks up against other similar sites but it seems like a nice fit for me so far. I'll include updates as I progress.

Tuesday, February 2, 2010

new photo


Loved this thorny tree from the minute I saw it! For more of my photos please see photo page @ my new website: bijoulerie.com.

Tuesday, January 5, 2010

all about the color red

When I was 17 I attended a Bill Blass fashion show. Not because I did those things ordinarily but because someone who did had invited me. There was a reception before the show with champagne and huge perfect strawberries and the show itself was wonderful. We saw some truly beautiful gowns that day. The only one I remember however was red. Not just any red but a rich vivid red, truer than the strawberries at the reception, brighter than any tropical flower I could imagine. This gown trailed decadently on the floor, a long sweep of scarlet, vibrant in spotlights. If you want a man to notice you, Bill Blass said, wear red.

Red was my favorite color then. It was dramatic. It was classic. It sent a signal. And this has always been the case.

It was estimated that the first reds were taken from the earth in pre-historic times in the form of iron oxide, a mineral now called red ochre. It has been found in cave paintings discovered. Red was used in China as early as 2600 BC in the form of vermilion, a pigment found in the mineral cinnabar.

Like many dyes, red was obtained not only from minerals but from plants. The henna plant was was used, and madder. Chemical tests of red fabrics found in King Tutankhamen’s tomb show that they were dyed with alizarin, a pigment made from madder and it is likely that the use of plant based dyes goes back even farther.

Red was also taken from an insect called the cochineal and was used possibly for thousands of years in Maya and Aztec culture. Montezuma wore red and when Cortez entered Tenochtitlan he found bags of cochineal dye. The pigment was so much brighter than the insect based dye, kermes, used by the Europeans that it quickly became a coveted 'new' world export, second only to silver in value.

Contemporary reds are most commonly derived from minerals such as cadmium, iron oxide (ochre) as well as synthetics based on alizarin. Vermilion the most costly red, is no longer in wide spread use due to its toxcity.

Red is the highest arc of the rainbow, the longest wavelength of light. Feng shui recommends painting the front door of a home red to invite prosperity to the residents. Red has signified strength and courage for literally thousands of years. It appears in more flags then any other color. Indian brides wear red for luck. It is the national color of China. It is reminiscent of the red light district and illicit passion. We see red when we are angry. We receive red roses when we are loved.

People who love red are said to be adventurous, sensual, lovers of life. They can be confident, and vivacious, or impulsive and demanding but they are rarely boring. Red people are considered risk-takers, disliking rules and limitations. In fashion, red can be quirky or sexy. It is the color of lipstick, and high heels. Of Dorothy's ruby slippers. Of real rubies, and garnets. Wearing red can make a social statement almost of defiance. And when, dressed in red, a woman takes a breath and steps into any room anywhere, she knows she will be noticed.